The good part about being behind on one’s posts as that you already know what is going to happen! I finally got some good Internet access and will try and capitalize on my good fortune.
I am sitting in a seaside pub with Helen sipping a Heineken.
Read about Days 1 (here), 2 (here) & 3 (here) of our Netherlands cycling adventure.
They finally let us out of Amsterdam (LOL)! As they say in the movies: “Parting is such sweet sorrow.” It was hard to leave Amsterdam as we had enjoyed such a superb 3 days with Marc. But we have places to go and people to see.
Getting out of the city is very easy. Simply cycle over to the back of the main train station. There are 3 (free) ferries that go over to North Amsterdam. The middle one is the quickest. We took it and were at our destination within minutes.
From there we hit the Fietspad (bike path) right off the boat. What people tell you about cycling in the Netherlands is true. The paths are immaculate. I would venture to say that they are as good or better than the roads. Holland is covered with more bike paths then roads. You can go anywhere! Everything is clearly marked with signs or “mushrooms” (more on them later). As you read through my posts you will see photos that Helen has taken offering proof of my (bold) assertions.
Also, I have to say something else about the Fietspad network. It is so darned good that you really don’t even need a detailed map (unless, perhaps, you want to explore a particular area in great detail). Everything is well-marked. The Dutch do not miss a beat. I bring this point up as Helen & I spent money on a book about cycling in Holland. The book is fine inasmuch as it points out great places to visit. She (the author) goes into mind-numbing detail about “go straight for 112 meters, turn left and continue on for 32.5 meters…..”. Awful stuff. All you really need is a destination in mind and a list of towns you want to stop at along the way. Head for the first town on the list… and so on and so on. You will only get lost if you cannot read signs (no male bashing comments accepted). And…. if do think you are lost, simply stop and ask someone for directions. Most people here speak English and are glad to practice their skills.
On to Marken. This is a nice little town on the Ij Meer (Sea). The differentiating factor is that the homes in the old part of town are built on stilts. It is quaint and worth a quick stop. I am always wary when I arrive in a town that has a huge bus parking lot (Tourists!). We were in luck as tourist season is waning in these parts. Helen and I had a delightful picnic beside a small canal (the ducks were very used to being fed). From there it was over to the harbor and “artificial” homes.
We grabbed the ferry over to Volendam. This was our first real experience with the sea over here. It was a pristine day. No clouds…and lots of wind (more on that soon). Our short crossing was beautiful (put this one on your list people).
Volendam is a beautiful town on the Ij. It is touristic, but nice. The main drag (facing south into the sun) borders the harbor and is full of cafes and restaurants. Grab a beer and watch the world go by (time well-spent).
From Volendam, we hit the road and headed towards Edam (yes the cheese place). What a nice little town. It has become a tourist destination. But one with a certain style. Helen & I had a couple of cappuccinos in the square overlooking the oldest building in Edam (1530).
On to business. The balance of our day’s journey was up the coast to Hoorn (a small town at the top of the Ij Mer). It was made famous as the original headquarters of the Dutch East India Company.
Beginning just south of Marken we became aware of the wind. As we cycled at the top of the dike, we realized that the wind was coming from the north; headed in a westerly direction – “North-Westerly”. I never thought about what that meant. I know now. Unlike hills (Nadine), the wind never (ever ever) ends. It is there and you have to deal with it. When you are riding a Dutch bike laden with saddlebags that weigh too much (Note to self: pack less next time!), 13 (or so) kilometers per hour seems pretty fast. Remember, this is all about slow cycling.
Our day ended in Hoorn. Not much of a town as compared to some of the others in the Netherlands. Nice enough though. Our highlight was our dinner at an amazing little Italian restaurant. I usually don’t plug places. But this one was so darned good, I simply have to! Portofino: Nieuwald 24, Hoorn.
Still here? Look at our Flickr images
And there you have it – Day 4 completed!
Total Distance traveled: Not sure — probably about 45 kilometers







Absolutely fabulous! You may never want to go home. What a beautiful country.
Wow, that is great! Nice post, Les, great pictures, Helen! I knew I didn’t have to worry about anything, that’s obvious, I’m really glad it’s working out so wonderfully.
Nice pictures!
Your trip seem to be great. Will you leave your cycle their or bring them back with you?
Great persoanl stories and photos. Happy travels!
HI,
Hope you had a great anniversary and lots of beer!
We’re on a campsite with free wifi………..
Go figure….
Paul and EilÃs.
@Philippe: We actually purchased the bikes. Crazy I know. They are coming back with us.
@Scott: Thanks buddy. we are having a blast here!
@ Paul: Happy you saved the card with our URL. It was great chatting with you both on the boat to Texel. Thanks for the anniversary wishes. Safe travels and enjoy Denmark.
& Marc: We are in Leeuwarden today. I know – I am behind on my posts. we are off to see Helen’s grandparent’s home.
Awesome, just awesome. You do get to meet more people both on a bicycle and the interwebs
.
Late but still: Happy Anniversary, 3 big Dutch kisses (not just for Helen
)
Looking forward to the pics of that house, but take your time, we all understand.
@ Amsterdamize (Marc). Thanks buddy. we had a great day yesterday.
This is great. I’m thinking of doing something similar (buying a bike, riding around and sending it back). This is good inspiration.